Hapoli Street - Now & Then

1978?

 2012

Shades of Silver

Twice in a year, the Apatanis don't have time to breathe. One is during harvesting of paddy in September-October when the crops have to be safely in the granaries in the narrow window after they have ripen but before they fall off. The other occasion is now when the paddy saplings have to be transplanted in the fields from the nurseries before they grow too big.

Much water has flowed down the Kle river in the last fifty years, but little has changed as far as agricultural practices of the Apatanis is concerned. The two pictures below, taken more than fifty years back, could have been shot today!

This time of the year is one of the best times to visit Ziro. Not only is the weather excellent - after the chill of the winter and before warmth of the summer months, but lots of activities can be observed. The hills around the valley are replete with varieties of wild berries and fruits. Irrigated paddy fields present various shades of silver. 

It won't be very long these shades of silver give way to carpets of green and then to shades of gold. Welcome to Ziro again! 

Nago Putu

Beyond the Bwrw leñba lies a vast expanse of land in a sylvan setting. Pine plantations line both sides of the fair-weather road leading right up to the jungle beyond. This, I am tempted to guess, must have been the Supuñ Bwrw, said to be the original settlement of the Apatanis.

As if to lend credence to my guess lies a beautiful open space in the midst of the pine forest. This space is called the Nago Putu. I wonder if this was the site of the Supuñ Nago, but am not able to establish the fact.

Whatever the significance of this place, it is the perfect getaway from the crowded town. In addition, this is a favorite spot for shooting video films and video song albums.

(This post can be read here in Apatani).

Hapoli Bazar - Then and Now

Hapoli - Then:

Hapoli - Now:

Trekking to Pepu

As the meadows of Supyu slowly recedes from our sight, our excitement increases. The hill of ferns give way to thicker forest with varieties of trees. The rustling of dry leaves under our feet is punctuated with occasional call of birds. The forest is less noisy than we expected, though. We are on an exploratory trek to Pepu Cumyu, considered to be one of the highest points at Ziro.

As we tread up slowly, taking in the grandeur of virgin forest, a clear view of Nyime Peñbu range presents itself in all glory. 

Though it is sunny today, the weather was gloomy the previous day. We see the resultant snow at several places on our track. It is said that snowfall in this part of the hills is said to be sometimes as thick as a foot. It is not so heavy today.

As it gets dark, we decide to call it a day and settle down. We are at 6500 ft now. We pitch our tents and start looking for some water to cook. It is not easy to find water at such altitude. However, we somehow manage to locate a small stream nearby, though it was a steep descent to the precipitous valley.

Early next morning, we climb further to Pepu Cumyu (Cyume Nyatu) with great anticipation. It is at 7200 ft. It looks almost dark even at 6.00 AM. But even at 8.00 AM, the forest is covered with mist. We look towards Ziro, but cannot see anything but white mist engulfing the valley. We cannot wait any longer. Disappointed we start our descent to the camp half an hour later.

Descent back to Ziro valley is faster than we expected. As we come out of the thick forest to the hills of ferns, we are greeted with the view of Ziro - as placid as ever.

We are disappointed that we could not take any photograph from Cyume Nyatu, but the trek itself is extremely invigorating. This, we decided, could be one of the better trekking routes at Ziro.