Kalung Rañtw - best of the Sacred Groves at Ziro

We have talked about the mystery of Rañtw - sacred groves of Ziro in a previous posting. Among the rañtws, Hari Rañtw is the best known for its magnificent trees which are named after the women who are believed to have planted them. Less known, but no less grand, is the Kalung Rañtw.

A special feature about the Kalung Rañtw is the fact that a shed at the site of the traditional nyatu - resting place, had been inaugurated by Kuru Hassang in 1998. The rañtw, most probably, has the biggest area and best maintained of all the village sacred groves.

The boundary is well demarcated with iron or concrete posts to prevent any encroachment attempts. Apart from magnificent blue pine trees, sacred trees include a wide varieties of other trees as well. The look of the sacred forest reminds one of Frost's verse, "The woods are lovely, dark and deep...."

Placid views from the rañtw add charm to the place.

Welcome to Kalung Rañtw.

Ziro Putu and Apatani Settlement Story

Ziro Putu today occupies the center of the Ziro valley. This is sometimes called the Army Putu as it became the cantonment area of the Indian Army in the sixties. It is said that the whole troop was killed in the war for liberation of present Bangladesh in 1972. For a long time after the soldiers left, it remained an empty hill covered with gentle green grass and fetching ferns. Some government establishments are being set up these days on the hillock.

Ziro Putu was once the village of the Ziro clan of the Apatanis. The first batch of the Apatanis to have settled down in the present habitat were the clans of Ziro, Tabyu and Dusu. Ziro people established their village in the north-west of the valley at Ziro Putu. Likewise, Tabyu clan settled down in the north-east at Tabyu Putu and Dusu clan in the southern end of the valley at Hula Putu.

The next batch of the Apatanis to have come to the valley were the people of Hong, Hari, Kalung, Reru, Tajang and Hija. They initially settled down at Bwrw but dispersed to different directions at their present habitats. The last batch to have reached the valley were the people of Dutta, Mudang-Tage and Michi-Bamin.

It is one of the ironies of history that the first settlers – Ziro, Tabyu and Dusu, who remained most influential and powerful for a long time – are today being reduced to minorities. Ziro clan left the valley and their whereabouts is uncertain at present. Almost all the people of Dusu clan were killed in a conspiracy by the rest of the Apatanis, but the descendants of a few who escaped to other villages survive today. Tabyu clan is survived by few families and we hope that the numbers will increase in the coming days. These are the materials for more stories, though.

In the meantime, welcome to visit the Hula Putu by the Hong village, the Tabyu Putu in Tajang village and the iconic Ziro Putu to relive the history of Apatani settlement in the Ziro valley.

Ziro - Cyclists' Paradise

In the seventies and eighties, bicycles were the most prestigious mode of local transport at Ziro. Groups of young boys could be seen on their bicycles in colorful dresses, often carrying their girlfriends in front of them. Students would paddle their way to their schools at Hapoli from far away villages like Bulla or Hija. School compounds were full of bicycles. So were the office complexes. Bicycles shops were doing good business in the twin towns of Old Ziro and Hapoli.

Popularity of bicycles started waning in the nineties with the advent of two wheelers - first the scooters and later motor bikes. Shops too disappeared one by one. When two wheelers were replaced by motor cars, Ziro was looking like a sinking town.

When a group of concerned citizens, under the banner of NgunuZiro, organized a bicycle expedition around the villages of Ziro last August, it elicited enthusiastic response from within Ziro as well as from outside the valley. More than fifty cyclists participated in the expedition and HE the Governor of Arunachal Pradesh sent a special emissary to participate and to convey a message of good will. 

Ziro looks a happy town again with increasing number of bicyclists and addition of more bicycle shops at Hapoli. One can see people happily paddling around even in the chill of this winter. NgunuZiro has mountain bikes for rent for interested visitors to Ziro.

How Bwhañ Tabu lost its Poison

Abotani was returning home. On the way, he saw the deadly Bwhañ Tabu jumping in joy.

"What is the occasion, my friend?" Abotani asked.

"I have done it!" the reptile shouted. "I have killed him with my poison!"

"Whom did you kill?"

"Someone with black hair on his head," Bwhañ Tabu told.

Abotani recalled all the creatures who have black hair on their heads. Suddenly, it dawned on him that it is the humans who have such features. He became worried. If this goes on, the future of mankind was bleak. He had to do something.

"Oh, I am sorry but you are celebrating in vain," Abotani told the tabu. "The one you bit is sitting in the sun with beautiful cloths and his hair neatly combed. I have come that way and saw him myself."

Bwhañ Tabu was shocked. He was disappointed with himself.

"What use is my poison," he thought, "if it cannot kill a creature!"

So saying, he spat out all of the poison he had at Supuñ Lañta. It was from that day onwards that the once-poisonous Bwhañ is harmless today.

Other small creatures like the bee, ants, etc. helped themselves with the poison that the tabu had spat out. That is how they got the poisons they have!

Hapoli Street - Now & Then

1978?

 2012

Nago Putu

Beyond the Bwrw leñba lies a vast expanse of land in a sylvan setting. Pine plantations line both sides of the fair-weather road leading right up to the jungle beyond. This, I am tempted to guess, must have been the Supuñ Bwrw, said to be the original settlement of the Apatanis.

As if to lend credence to my guess lies a beautiful open space in the midst of the pine forest. This space is called the Nago Putu. I wonder if this was the site of the Supuñ Nago, but am not able to establish the fact.

Whatever the significance of this place, it is the perfect getaway from the crowded town. In addition, this is a favorite spot for shooting video films and video song albums.

(This post can be read here in Apatani).

Hapoli Bazar - Then and Now

Hapoli - Then:

Hapoli - Now:

Trekking to Pepu

As the meadows of Supyu slowly recedes from our sight, our excitement increases. The hill of ferns give way to thicker forest with varieties of trees. The rustling of dry leaves under our feet is punctuated with occasional call of birds. The forest is less noisy than we expected, though. We are on an exploratory trek to Pepu Cumyu, considered to be one of the highest points at Ziro.

As we tread up slowly, taking in the grandeur of virgin forest, a clear view of Nyime Peñbu range presents itself in all glory. 

Though it is sunny today, the weather was gloomy the previous day. We see the resultant snow at several places on our track. It is said that snowfall in this part of the hills is said to be sometimes as thick as a foot. It is not so heavy today.

As it gets dark, we decide to call it a day and settle down. We are at 6500 ft now. We pitch our tents and start looking for some water to cook. It is not easy to find water at such altitude. However, we somehow manage to locate a small stream nearby, though it was a steep descent to the precipitous valley.

Early next morning, we climb further to Pepu Cumyu (Cyume Nyatu) with great anticipation. It is at 7200 ft. It looks almost dark even at 6.00 AM. But even at 8.00 AM, the forest is covered with mist. We look towards Ziro, but cannot see anything but white mist engulfing the valley. We cannot wait any longer. Disappointed we start our descent to the camp half an hour later.

Descent back to Ziro valley is faster than we expected. As we come out of the thick forest to the hills of ferns, we are greeted with the view of Ziro - as placid as ever.

We are disappointed that we could not take any photograph from Cyume Nyatu, but the trek itself is extremely invigorating. This, we decided, could be one of the better trekking routes at Ziro.

Our Ziro

This can be seen here as well.

The Celestial Mortar

There are very few open spaces left at Ziro now. The Ziro Putu, which after 1972 Bangladesh war and subsequent departure of the defense personnel, had become symbolic of Ziro, is now dotted with buildings of different shapes and sizes. Dutta Papii, which hosted the legendary Laliñ Yalu is equally congested. The mythical and beautiful Tadu Dobi is now occupied by concrete school buildings.

Dogiñ Nanw, however, still retains its old charm of open space. We, as children, used to pass through this grazing ground with awe during Penw processions of Muruñ. As in the past, this space still serves as the grazing ground for cows.

The focal point of Dogiñ Nanw is the Yapuñ Yapvr a collection of huge stones at the periphery of the field. It is difficult to elicit any story behind these stones, but children were discouraged from going too near them lest the Yapuñ, the Sky God would be offended.

Whatever the true fact, Dogiñ Nanii and Yapuñ Yaper are important landmarks of Ziro.

(To read this post in Apatani, click here.)

World Bamboo Day

As the world was observing the World Bamboo Day on 18th last, I was looking around the ways we use bamboos in our daily life. I briefly mentioned the roles of bamboo in our live here and so, will not repeat that. I'll show some bamboo items as I looked around my home. 

Piipiñ and yagii are two of the most prominent items in any Apatani house. Piipiñ is used to dry paddy, millet, chilly or other items. It also serves as giant plates for many people to eat together on certain special occasions.

Yagii essentially serves as a basket to carry things around. They are named according to their sizes - giida pata, entii yagii, puhe yagii and so on. The one in the picture is the giida pata.

 There are many other bamboo implements that I mentioned earlier. I recently constructed a bamboo furniture which I find is really useful.

 And this is the season bamboo is harvested at Ziro. The following are the remains of the bamboo - the top (milyiñ and arañ). They too are used for many purposes; I am still figuring out the best uses now.

The few points mentioned here are hardly a comprehensive list of the ways the Apatanis use bamboo. It is just a pointer to the fact that bamboo is the material that sustains our lives.

Shades of Gold at Ziro

Colors never cease to play at Ziro. Gorgeous grey with placid blue as background in winter. Spring brings with it riots of color - whites of pecha apu, reds of sembo apu and pinks of takuñ apu. As the season advances, greenery spreads everywhere. The blanket of greenery goes on darkening, giving way to yellowish tint.

Middle of September, however, is the best time as far as color combination at Ziro is concerned. Ripening paddy presenting various shades of gold. Emo look whitish with green tints due to their leaves. Different varieties of mipya, which are ripe now, are either golden or blackish. This, verily, must have inspired the pyamiñ combination so characteristic of the Apatani textile.

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At places the paddy fields look like islands of gold in the sea of green. At others, the villages with their characteristic green rims of bamboo gardens look like islands of white in the sea of gold.

More shades can be seen here and here. Welcome to Ziro before it turns grey with harvesting of paddy in two weeks from now.

Hapoli - Then & Now

Ziro in mid-1980s (Source: posting in Facebook by Tadu Omo)

Ziro in mid-2000s

Ziro Landing Ground

1957: Kimin-Ziro road opened.
1952: Divisional Headquarter of Subansiri shifted from Kimin to Ziro.
1951: First aeroplane landed at Ziro landing ground.

This chronology of events looks upside down. It is one of the many intriguing facts about Ziro. Before the Kimin-Ziro road was opened in 1957, one had to trek through pestilential jungles for as long as a week from Kimin. Ziro was, in those days, an administrative outpost.

View of Landing Ground in 2011:

Construction of the landing ground was a major event in the otherwise sleepy valley at 5000 ft above sea level. RG Menzes, then Political Officer, who also opened the Ziro township on March 24, 1952 supervised the works. It is noteworthy that only local people - both Apatanis and Nyishis - were engaged in the construction project.

Landing Ground under construction in 1951:

The first aeroplane to land was an Otter in 1951 and next year in 1952, a Dakota landed after lengthening the landing ground. Since then, supply of essential items to the whole Subansiri division has been much easier. Till this day, this is the base for air-dropping of such items to strategic places like Damin, Sarli, Chambang, Limeking and Taksing.

In the seventies, the first commercial operation - that of Vayudoot - was started with much fanfare. The services never took off as expected as the flights became too unreliable due to unpredictable weather.

A serious attempt was made in the late nineties to extend the length of the present ground so as to make it viable for landing of commercial airplanes. As vast areas of priceless wet-rice cultivation areas were at stake, the project got a major setback. The government still has said to have an ongoing project to ungrade it into an airport. Even at the present status, the landing ground remains the most prominent landmark of Ziro.

Myoko

Myoko is at last here. Prolonged preparation has culminated into construction of Nago and sama piniiñ.

Nago plays crucial roles not only during Myoko but in everyday lives of the Apatanis. During the Myoko, Siiki is cajoled to come up in the world of man and to participate in the festivity. Nago is also the place where the all important ritual ropi is performed.

The main attraction of the nago is the piidiñs on either side. Traditionally the structure is roofed with tapo, but bamboos are being increasingly used these days. Tapo retains the advantage that the tapers can easily be inserted into it.


Sama piniiñ is the inaugural ceremony of the Myoko festival. The occasion kick-starts all other processes.

The festival this year is in the villages of Hari, Bulla and Tajang.

Welcome one and all!

Reptiles of Talle

The story of tabu and tatii has enthralled Apatani children for ages. Snakes have always been mysterious creatures and many a myths are associated with them. It is worshipped as well as feared.


Last year, while I was attending a meeting in the US, I got a call from a friend to help a team visit Talle Wildlife Sanctuary. We were carrying out a wildlife survey at the time, and I said why not. So went the team with our local contacts and they were enthralled with the professional approach of the team.

Here and here are the accounts of the expedition by one of the team members. Enjoy the beautiful pictures of some reptiles and amphibians they photographed.

Yapuñ Yaper

It is always a pleasure to walk the road between Hija and Dutta villages. The road is flanked by magnificent bamboo gardens. What one often miss, while enjoying the walk, is the Yapuñ Yaper – the famous stone that we have grown up hearing about.

The spot where this unique stone was originally located used to be an important landmark in the days when the present road was a footpath connecting the two villages. It got displaced when the road was widened. However, some concerned people took interest and fixed the stone over the roadside drain with concrete mix.

I tried to get the history behind the stone with not much success. Do you have any?

Babo

The advent of Myoko is announced in myriad ways. It starts with the monkey hunting expedition (bidiñ) after the harvest. Then follows preparation and fetching of babos and lapangs from the jungle. Not-so long ago, such events were major ones. Members of clans used to stay for nights together preparing the lapangs. When the selected trees were felled for babos, young men used to rush in to mark the piidiñ, so that he can tie his rope on the topmost portion of the babo while dragging it to the village. Such young men were heroes of the clan.

The babos are erected and lapangs repaired during December/January of the Myoko anyangs. The babos are decorated like a bridegroom before they are erected. Taper, rinyo, lako - all in place.



Erection of babo is still a great event that every neighborhood look forward to. Every male member of the clan has to participate. Once fully decorated, the babo is pulled up using cane ropes. The ropes are tied to the topmost portions - the piiding and the tapers. Once in place, one agile young man volunteers to climb up the babo to bring down the ropes.



It is not only the festival of Myoko, but the preparation as well that is worth enjoying and watching.

Ziro on New Year Day '11

Ziro on the morning of the first day of 2011 was placid as usual. Light tints of mist across the eastern horizon. In contrast to clear sky and sunny days in the previous days, it was cloudy. "Myodi ho pembe iñdudo" - there must be snow fall in the higher reaches, was the speculation of the elderly person I talked to about the gloomy weather. Yes, the wind blowing down from the north was chilly.



There was no ice, however. In the previous days, the landscape used to be coated in white.


In spite of the rain and cold weather, Manipolyang was dotted with picnicking groups. Taring was the only picnic spot a decade back. It has taken a back seat now after a road was constructed to Manipolyang. It is better this year with an excellent road connecting the place with Hong village.

In the recent years, other picnic spots are coming up. The Old Ziro-Hiija road via Supyu has opened up many such spots along the road. So has the Hari-Hapya road in the east. It is good to see people enjoying nature in many areas. It would be better to see them respect nature and not overburden it with plastic bottles and other waste materials.

After Ten Years

The glimpse of the pace of development (?) of Ziro can be seen in the Google Earth, which has a high resolution now. The picture in the Google Earth now is that of November 2000.

Lots more greenery in Hapoli township. Characteristic tall Eucalyptus trees on the road leading to the District Hospital can be seen. So too in the road near the General Ground. No more now. Most of the empty green spaces between the government quarters and along the roads are now occupied by concrete buildings. Moving away from the Hapoli township, Biirii is still agricultural land - lyapyos and yorlus. It is now an upcoming affluent village. Mythical Tadu Dobi is still a romantic big space covered with green grass. No longer now. Salalya, where a college is located now, is still the community grazing ground. In the Google Earth picture below, the small red circle shows where a lodge stands and the big circle shows the Vivekananda Kendriya Vidyalaya now. Old Ziro is still lot more empty. There are no buildings in the midst of paddy fields.


Ten years. Does not sound long, but lots seem to have happened. One wonders what picture of Ziro we'll have after ten years from today.