Apatani Settlement at Talle Valley

The migration story of the Apatanis unequivocally points to the fact that they had settled down in Talle Valley before shifting base to their present habitat at Ziro valley. A team of archaeologists, in fact, had an extensive survey of Talle valley looking for any evidence of human settlement with not much success. This is understandable as the tribe had not used any materials of metal or of stone that usually leave evidences. Since the archaeologists usually look for such remains, they could not find any. What they missed, however, was the most striking evidence of Apatani settlement any visitor to the valley can see even to this day. What is that evidence? We'll find out in a while.

I always thought that blue pine at Ziro is native to the place. I believed that till some years back when I was bringing a friend working with UNDP to Ziro and during the course of our discussion, I told him that blue pine is endemic to Ziro.

“I don’t think so,” he said. “Overall vegetation here and the geographical location of Ziro indicate that blue pine is exotic.” He explained that blue pine had been brought from somewhere else and planted here.

I tried to argue against it, but he was so sure about his theory that I had to revise my own belief. I recalled then that the migration story of the Apatanis also tells of the tribe coming to the valley with seeds of pine (pwsa), bamboo (bije) and mustard (giyañ). It was clear, then, that Ziro valley was once home to broad-leaved evergreen forests and that blue pine that dominate the landscape today, was planted by the Apatanis when they settled down here.

The visitors to Talle Valley are surprised at the vegetation pattern there – broad-leaved trees in the higher reaches while coniferous forests of pine and fir dominate the valley. This is the reverse of the expected pattern. The scientists find themselves at a loss to explain what they call a unique phenomenon. It is not unique, though: this pattern is found in at least one other place.

The same so-called reverse vegetation pattern is seen at Ziro valley which very few people may have noticed. Coniferous vegetation, mainly of blue pine, dominate the valley while the surrounding hills are covered with broad-leaved trees.  This pattern is because the Apatanis planted the blue pine in the valley while broad-leaved trees are native to the area and has remained in the hills.

It is not difficult to understand now that the reverse vegetation pattern at Talle Valley also is result of similar works. When the Apatanis settled down in Talle valley, they planted psuga pine and fir in the valley while the original broad-leaved vegetation in the hills around the valley has remained intact. This, then, is the most striking and strong evidence to scientifically support the Apatani migration story that they had lived in Talle valley for a very long time before they shifted to Ziro valley.

Ziro Putu and Apatani Settlement Story

Ziro Putu today occupies the center of the Ziro valley. This is sometimes called the Army Putu as it became the cantonment area of the Indian Army in the sixties. It is said that the whole troop was killed in the war for liberation of present Bangladesh in 1972. For a long time after the soldiers left, it remained an empty hill covered with gentle green grass and fetching ferns. Some government establishments are being set up these days on the hillock.

Ziro Putu was once the village of the Ziro clan of the Apatanis. The first batch of the Apatanis to have settled down in the present habitat were the clans of Ziro, Tabyu and Dusu. Ziro people established their village in the north-west of the valley at Ziro Putu. Likewise, Tabyu clan settled down in the north-east at Tabyu Putu and Dusu clan in the southern end of the valley at Hula Putu.

The next batch of the Apatanis to have come to the valley were the people of Hong, Hari, Kalung, Reru, Tajang and Hija. They initially settled down at Bwrw but dispersed to different directions at their present habitats. The last batch to have reached the valley were the people of Dutta, Mudang-Tage and Michi-Bamin.

It is one of the ironies of history that the first settlers – Ziro, Tabyu and Dusu, who remained most influential and powerful for a long time – are today being reduced to minorities. Ziro clan left the valley and their whereabouts is uncertain at present. Almost all the people of Dusu clan were killed in a conspiracy by the rest of the Apatanis, but the descendants of a few who escaped to other villages survive today. Tabyu clan is survived by few families and we hope that the numbers will increase in the coming days. These are the materials for more stories, though.

In the meantime, welcome to visit the Hula Putu by the Hong village, the Tabyu Putu in Tajang village and the iconic Ziro Putu to relive the history of Apatani settlement in the Ziro valley.

Ziro - Cyclists' Paradise

In the seventies and eighties, bicycles were the most prestigious mode of local transport at Ziro. Groups of young boys could be seen on their bicycles in colorful dresses, often carrying their girlfriends in front of them. Students would paddle their way to their schools at Hapoli from far away villages like Bulla or Hija. School compounds were full of bicycles. So were the office complexes. Bicycles shops were doing good business in the twin towns of Old Ziro and Hapoli.

Popularity of bicycles started waning in the nineties with the advent of two wheelers - first the scooters and later motor bikes. Shops too disappeared one by one. When two wheelers were replaced by motor cars, Ziro was looking like a sinking town.

When a group of concerned citizens, under the banner of NgunuZiro, organized a bicycle expedition around the villages of Ziro last August, it elicited enthusiastic response from within Ziro as well as from outside the valley. More than fifty cyclists participated in the expedition and HE the Governor of Arunachal Pradesh sent a special emissary to participate and to convey a message of good will. 

Ziro looks a happy town again with increasing number of bicyclists and addition of more bicycle shops at Hapoli. One can see people happily paddling around even in the chill of this winter. NgunuZiro has mountain bikes for rent for interested visitors to Ziro.

Peci Putu

Making a round of the seven original Apatani villages used to be tantamount to making a round of the world. That was the impression during Penw ceremony of Muruñ festival. When such arduous tasks were undertaken, there had to be resting places. One such place was the Peci Putu at Bwrw.

It was here that the participants in the Penw took rest for some minutes and young men organized high jump competition among themselves. The place is a part of the Supuñ Bwrw where all the Apatanis are said to have settled down upon migration before scattering to their respective villages. Today, the place remains one of the few open spaces owned by the communities. 

Except for litters of plastic bottles and wrappers at places discarded by irresponsible picnickers, Peci Putu still presents what one imagines of Ziro, the place. It serves as the grazing ground for cattles and flock of birds can be seen flying around. Colorful butterflies are in their playful best around the groves of trees and by the nearby yorlus.

Peci Putu is, truly the centre of the Apatani valley. At a short distance can be seen the Hong village (above) and the Hapoli town (below). A little more than a kilometer to the north will take you to Hari via the legendary Dobi where a school has come up.

The play of sun and shade can be enjoyed in all its glory in the paddy fields surrounding it in three sides. Look across towards the main road, and one can have the magnificent view of the Pequ.

This September, a festival of music is planned at Ziro. Appropriately, Peci Putu is the selected venue for the festival. There will be music, food, culture and many things more to enjoy. This, then, is an occasion to visit this beautiful place.

How Bwhañ Tabu lost its Poison

Abotani was returning home. On the way, he saw the deadly Bwhañ Tabu jumping in joy.

"What is the occasion, my friend?" Abotani asked.

"I have done it!" the reptile shouted. "I have killed him with my poison!"

"Whom did you kill?"

"Someone with black hair on his head," Bwhañ Tabu told.

Abotani recalled all the creatures who have black hair on their heads. Suddenly, it dawned on him that it is the humans who have such features. He became worried. If this goes on, the future of mankind was bleak. He had to do something.

"Oh, I am sorry but you are celebrating in vain," Abotani told the tabu. "The one you bit is sitting in the sun with beautiful cloths and his hair neatly combed. I have come that way and saw him myself."

Bwhañ Tabu was shocked. He was disappointed with himself.

"What use is my poison," he thought, "if it cannot kill a creature!"

So saying, he spat out all of the poison he had at Supuñ Lañta. It was from that day onwards that the once-poisonous Bwhañ is harmless today.

Other small creatures like the bee, ants, etc. helped themselves with the poison that the tabu had spat out. That is how they got the poisons they have!